Now, Laroche's technical director, Gregory Viennois, has returned to cork closures for its Chablis.
"Oxygen is not a problem," Viennois says. "We need oxygen for a wine to be alive. But it's a question of the quantity of oxygen and when. I think with a good cork selection we have the right combination of oxygen and we have a slow evolution in the wines. I think that's why we like to open old bottles. We have a new combination of molecules and new aromas, and we have the incredible mystery and aging of fine wines."